FAQs

International availability and shipping charges depend on the product and destination. Add the current item to your cart and enter your address to see the available shipping options and cost before paying.

Some European orders ship from a partner warehouse in Asia. A 15–20-day estimate may apply to those routes, with additional customs processing possible; use the current estimate for your actual order.

For the standard GRS Super Joystick, all countries, including Japan, use the same GRS Super Joystick – USB Rotary Arcade Joystick listing. No separate international listing is needed. The SNK-licensed IKARI version is sold out and is no longer offered for purchase; do not use its old US or international pages. The standard listing is a pre-order, so check its current pre-order and delivery details rather than assuming in-stock availability or immediate shipping.

If the current listing still rejects your destination or shows no service, contact [email protected] with the product, country and error. Using the correct listing does not guarantee a successful checkout.

“Label created” does not prove the carrier has collected your package. It means a shipping label exists; the parcel may still be awaiting handover or its first scan.

• Use the tracking link in your shipping-confirmation email. Carrier tracking can update late, so the team may need to check fulfillment and carrier records together.
• A 24–48-hour handover estimate is not a guarantee for every order. Product availability, processing conditions, destination and the selected service can affect timing.
• If tracking remains unchanged beyond the stated estimate, an order is unfulfilled, or a parcel is marked delivered but missing, contact [email protected] with your order number.

The team will investigate and confirm the appropriate next step. A tracking label, missing-parcel report or support discussion alone does not mean a replacement shipment has been approved or sent.

In short: email us first for verification — then ship the item back with tracking (we don't provide prepaid labels).

1. Email [email protected] with your order number, the reason, and photos (plus original packaging if possible).
2. We verify the return and send you the return address.
3. Pack securely and ship with a trackable method, then send us the tracking number and shipping receipt.
4. Timelines: our third-party warehouse checks returns in within 1–2 weeks; refunds complete within 2–3 weeks of delivery.

Bought on Amazon? Use Amazon's own return process instead.

Contact us immediately with your order number and the cancellation, item or address change you need. Changes are most likely to be possible before fulfillment, but a request is not confirmation that the change has been completed.

If an unfulfilled order falls outside the automated change window, a human team member can review it. Once an order has shipped, the existing shipment cannot be modified through an order edit; the team will confirm any available next steps.

Email [email protected]. Suspected fraud, unauthorized payments and other sensitive payment problems require human review.

In short: send your order number and photos — confirmed defects get replacement parts shipped, often without returning anything.

Email [email protected] with:

1. Your order number
2. Photos or a short video of the issue
3. For shipping damage: photos of the packaging too

We typically resolve defects by shipping the exact replacement part (PCB, cable, sensor wire, base) rather than making you return the whole unit. Missing items are checked against our packing records.

In short: every GRS product has official documentation — this page links all of it in one place.

• GRS Super Joystick / IKARI wiring diagram (wire colors): download here
• TS-RJConfigurator software (Super Joystick / IKARI): V1.04.11 download
• IKARI firmware (V2.33 / V2.35 / V2.36): on the IKARI product page
• GRS Tron Flight Stick installation manual (PDF): download here
• GRS Tron Flight Stick dimensional drawing (all measurements & travel clearances): download here
• GRS Trackball (TS-UTB-PRO) full user manual: download here — the printed sheet in the box is only the CPI/COL supplement
• GRS LED Trackball compatibility manual: download here
• Build-A-Cade / R-Cade OS images (open source): SourceForge downloads

Can't find what you need? Email [email protected] and we'll send it over.

In short: each product family has its own free tool — match yours below.

Basic USB use on a supported host may not need configuration software. Cabinet wiring, product model and software platform determine the actual setup; confirm the exact combination.

In short: Windows 10 and 11 are supported. Windows XP and other legacy systems are not.

The joystick itself works on any system as a standard USB controller — only the configuration tool needs a modern Windows PC.

In short: yes — a full official playlist covers setup from unboxing to MAME.

Watch the playlist here: IKARI / Super Joystick setup playlist

It covers installation, mode switching (important for the Ikari), configuration on MAME / Raspberry Pi / PC, and calibration. The sensor-wire replacement also has its own step-by-step video.

In short: unscrew the base, swap the thin shaft cable for the included spare, and re-test. About 10 minutes.

Watch the official tutorial first: sensor wire replacement video

1. Unplug the joystick and remove the base plate.
2. Disconnect the old sensor cable at both ends.
3. Thread the new cable through the shaft and reconnect.
4. Re-test the twist in TS-RJConfigurator → Controller Tester.

Used your spare already? We sell replacement sensor cables — email [email protected].

In short: it's almost always the sensor wire — the thin cable inside the joystick shaft. A spare is included in your box.

1. Open TS-RJConfigurator → Controller Tester and watch the Z-axis while twisting.
2. Look at the LED on the base. Blinking = sensor signal problem.
3. Check the sensor wire at both ends — it can loosen or break during installation or re-cabling.
4. If it's damaged, swap in the spare cable — follow the official video guide. Most twist failures are fixed in 10 minutes.

Need more help? Email [email protected] with your order number.

In short: blinking means the controller isn't getting a clean sensor signal. Solid means everything is normal.

1. Re-seat the sensor wire connectors at both ends.
2. Still blinking? The sensor wire is likely damaged — replace it with the included spare (video guide).

In short: the joystick's driver mode doesn't match its physical setup — match them, or simply use Mouse Mode for MAME.

The original arcade gave one twist = 45°. Double-twisting happens when the mode (8/12/16-way) doesn't match the knob cover and driver setting — not because of a hardware defect.

1. Check the current mode with the 2-in-1 button.
2. Make sure the physical knob cover and the driver mode are set to the same type (e.g. 12-way for Ikari Warriors).
3. Make sure you follow the exact recommended settings for analog sensitivity listed in the user manual.
4. Best practice for MAME: use Mouse Mode — it gives the most accurate rotary tracking, closest to the original arcade feel.

Full walkthrough: setup video playlist

In short: re-seat the knob cover, match it to the game type, and update firmware.

1. Press the knob cover down until it's fully seated.
2. Use the right cover for the game: 8, 12, or 16-way.
3. Check for debris under the cover.
4. Update to the latest firmware (V2.36+, on the product page).

Still skipping? Run the Controller Tester in TS-RJConfigurator, record a short video, and send it to [email protected].

For a matching GRS Super Joystick or IKARI sensor cable, contact [email protected] with the model and a photo if needed. These documented joystick kits include a spare sensor cable; the team can confirm additional cable availability, pricing and shipment. This does not apply to every GRS joystick or cable type.

Removing locking button terminals: disconnect power, press the terminal's small locking hook to release it, then slide it off gently. Pulling without releasing the hook can damage the microswitch terminal. If damaged, ask support to confirm the matching replacement button or terminal before ordering.

In short: no — the blue artwork is only on the packaging. Every unit is identical.

The box shows both the red (Player 1) and blue (Player 2) Ikari Warriors characters, which makes some buyers think a separate blue kit exists. It doesn't. For a two-player setup, buy two standard units — they're the same hardware.

In short: that's intentional — SNK mode matches the official SNK 40th Anniversary Collection behavior.

Auto-fire in SNK mode is part of the licensed integration, not a fault. For different behavior in other games, switch modes (Gamepad / Keystroke / Mouse) or remap the trigger in TS-RJConfigurator.

The SNK-licensed IKARI version is sold out and is no longer offered for purchase. Its former US and international product pages are no longer purchase options.

The current option is the standard GRS Super Joystick – USB Rotary Arcade Joystick. All customers use this same listing, including international customers and customers in Japan. No separate international listing is needed.

The standard GRS Super Joystick is currently offered as a pre-order. Please use that listing for your order and check its current pre-order and delivery details; a pre-order does not mean the item is in stock or ready for immediate shipping.

If the standard listing still rejects your address, contact [email protected] with the product, destination country and exact error so the team can check. Do not switch to an old SNK / IKARI listing.

First check that the recessed power button underneath the yoke is fully pressed into its on position.

1. Try a different suitable USB port and cable.
2. On Windows, press Windows key + R, enter joy.cpl and check the game-controller list.
3. If needed, test on a second PC. Skip checks you have already completed.

If it is still not detected, contact [email protected] with the yoke model, order number and checks completed. The team will review a possible hardware fault and confirm the appropriate repair or replacement.

In short: on the level-select screen, push the yoke to its maximum in all directions 2–3 times — and always use Gamepad mode, not Mouse mode.

The original Star Wars arcade used potentiometer hardware with wide tolerances, so the game has a built-in calibration step most players don't know about:

1. Start the game and reach the level selection screen.
2. Move the yoke to its maximum positions in all directions, 2–3 times.
3. The game is now calibrated to your yoke.

Also: Star Wars (and most MAME games) only work correctly with the yoke in Gamepad mode — don't use Mouse mode.

In short: the four screws on the bottom panel adjust rotation tightness — loosen them slightly, reinstall, then calibrate in Windows.

1. Remove the four screws on the bottom panel. These adjust the tightness of the yoke's rotation.
2. Loosen them slightly and reinstall — this resolves most centering issues.
3. Then calibrate in Windows: Windows key + R → joy.cpl → Properties → Calibrate.
4. In an emulator, add a small dead zone if tiny movements still register.

In short: flip the Y-axis in your emulator's settings — don't rewire anything.

• MAME: Tab → input settings → enable "reverse" on the Y analog axis.
• RetroArch: input remap → invert Y for the core.
• Follow the user menu. There is a section that tells you to press a push button for 10 seconds to revert the Y-axis.

This often appears after installing a Buy Stuff Arcades PC upgrade kit, which maps the axis differently. The fix is always in software.

In short: RetroArch auto-assigns the yoke to port 1 — manually set its device index for the port your game uses.

1. In RetroArch: Settings → Input → Port N Controls.
2. Set the yoke's Device Index for the correct port.
3. Save the configuration (Settings → Configuration → Save on Quit, or save a game remap).

In short: the yoke plugs into the wireless dongle's USB-A port, and the dongle's USB-C plug goes into your PC.

1. Mount the kit with the included screws and connect the internal USB lead.
2. Plug the Flight Yoke into the dongle's USB-A port.
3. Plug the dongle's USB-C connector into your PC.
4. No free USB-C port? Use a powered USB hub with USB-A or USB-C downstream ports. (A USB-C-to-USB-B adapter into an old USB-B hub will *not* work.)
5. Switching D-input / X-input: Long-press the push button located on the extension kit dongle to switch between D-input and X-input mode.

Known issue we're investigating: in X-input mode, a full right turn can occasionally register as a left input. If you see this on two different PCs, we are currently developing a new firmware to address this issue.

In short: no — free 360° rotation is a fault. Stop using it and contact us. Also check the locking mechanism.

The Tron stick is built with restricted rotation to protect its internal wiring. If yours rotates freely, continued use can damage the wires — email [email protected] with your order number and a short video.

Don't miss the locking mechanism: lock the joystick in place by pushing the bottom part and rotating it 90 degrees. It's easy to miss if you skip the manual — and an unlocked stick can feel "loose" or unstable.

In short: add the TOS restrictor if you want stricter gates.

1. Consider the TOS restrictor — note that on the Tron stick it is 8-way only by design.
2. Keep in mind the stick is a modern recreation, not a 1:1 copy of the original Tron mechanism — some feel the difference is expected.

In short: map the spinner per game, then turn on "Save Configuration on Quit" — or your mapping disappears at restart.

1. In the game: Quick Menu → Controls → set the Mouse Index / analog binding.
2. Then — critical — Settings → Configuration → "Save Configuration on Quit" = ON (or use Save Game Remap).

Step 2 is the one everyone misses — it's the most common reason a spinner "stops working" after a reboot.

In short: turn DIP switches 1 and 2 ON to remove the built-in 8ms Arcade1Up delay.

The board ships with a small latency buffer for stock Arcade1Up PCBs. On a PC/MAME build you don't need it:

1. Set DIP 1 = ON and DIP 2 = ON.
2. Reconnect — the spinner responds instantly.

In short: [download it here](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0606/7516/2341/files/GRS_Spinner_Ultra_Configuration_Tool-1.4.zip?v=1750728650) — Windows only.

The tool works with the Push & Pull Spinner Ultra and Button Hole Spinner Ultra, and configures:

• CPR / sensitivity
• Axis direction
• Button mappings
• Spinner behavior settings

Older versions had a UI bug where dropdown text disappeared — the current release fixes it, so re-download if you see it.

The Ultra Precision Upgrade Kit adds the Ultra-series hall-effect, high-resolution PCB to compatible older BSP/DOT spinners. Current Ultra models already include that PCB.

Confirm your exact spinner model and revision before ordering. See the upgrade-kit product page for current pricing, availability and compatibility details.

In short: it's usually the USB cable — test that before anything else.

1. Re-seat both ends of the USB cable, then try a known-good cable and a different port.
2. Check Device Manager — the trackball shows up as a HID mouse.
3. Nothing on a second PC either? Email [email protected] for a warranty replacement.

If one axis stays slow, check for lint or debris on the rollers using your exact trackball model's cleaning instructions. Disconnect power before accessing the ball or housing; do not force an unfamiliar housing open.

Re-seat the ball and test. If cleaning has already failed, send a short video, model and order number to [email protected]. A sensor or roller may need attention; the team will confirm the fault and appropriate repair or replacement.

The TS-DOT-ULTRA Push & Pull Spinner Ultra is a processed USB HID mouse device. Its P1 connector is not an exposed raw quadrature A/B output.

A properly configured USB-host implementation, such as a suitable ESP32-S3 host setup, is a possible architecture for reading HID input and relaying it in a custom project. It is not a supplied plug-and-play wireless solution. Host hardware, power, firmware and HID support must all be checked; do not connect USB signals to ordinary GPIO as raw encoder inputs.

Other GRS spinner models can have different interfaces. Contact [email protected] with the exact model and proposed setup before buying or wiring parts. Unsupported pinouts, custom firmware and guaranteed wireless operation need human review.

In short: the spinner itself always stays USB; only the push/pull button clicks can be wired to an encoder.

The rotation is read as a USB mouse axis and can't pass through a keyboard encoder. The push/pull switch contacts, however, are normal button signals — wire those to an iPAC 2 or any encoder like a standard button. Email us your encoder model if you'd like wiring confirmation first.

Firmware v2.64 addresses the documented disconnect and cold-boot enumeration issues on the affected Ultra models. Similar symptoms can have other causes. Confirm the exact model, hardware revision and installed firmware before updating.

Do I have the affected batch?

A recent production batch of Ultra spinners shipped with firmware v2.61, which can cause:

• GRS USB Button Hole Spinner Ultra: the spinner disconnects after roughly 5–7 minutes of use (re-plugging temporarily fixes it)
• GRS Push & Pull Spinner Ultra: USB enumeration fails on cold boot — Windows shows "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)"

Firmware v2.64 (released June 30, 2026) resolves both, and also strengthens the spinner's on-chip security authentication. Ask support for the firmware approved for your exact model and revision. Do not downgrade a newer version or use a different model's firmware.

How to update (Windows only)

Record your current mappings and settings first; a factory reset clears saved configuration. Follow the instructions supplied with the matching firmware.

1. Download the GRS Spinner Ultra Configuration Tool v1.4 and open it with your spinner connected.
2. Email [email protected] for the latest firmware file for your model (Push & Pull or Button Hole) — tell us your order number and we'll send it right over.
3. Flash the firmware following the tool's on-screen instructions.
4. Confirm the tool reports the firmware version supplied by support for your model.
5. Press Factory Reset in the tool to clear the old settings memory (EEPROM).
6. Push & Pull models: run the push-and-pull calibration.
7. Save the configuration — done.

Using the spinner in an always-on arcade cabinet?

Also disable Windows USB power saving so the port never sleeps mid-game:

• Device Manager → Universal Serial Bus controllers → each USB Root Hub → Power Management → uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"
• Power Options → Advanced settings → USB settings → USB Selective Suspend = Disabled

Note: the standard TS-DOT-02 Push & Pull Spinner (2021, non-Ultra) is not affected by this issue and is not firmware-upgradeable.

Any trouble during the update? Email [email protected] with your order number — we'll walk you through it.

Firmware v2.64 addresses the documented disconnect and cold-boot enumeration issues on the affected Ultra models. Similar symptoms can have other causes. Confirm the exact model, hardware revision and installed firmware before updating.

Do I have the affected batch?

A recent production batch of Ultra spinners shipped with firmware v2.61, which can cause:

• GRS USB Button Hole Spinner Ultra: the spinner disconnects after roughly 5–7 minutes of use (re-plugging temporarily fixes it)
• GRS Push & Pull Spinner Ultra: USB enumeration fails on cold boot — Windows shows "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)"

Firmware v2.64 (released June 30, 2026) resolves both, and also strengthens the spinner's on-chip security authentication. Ask support for the firmware approved for your exact model and revision. Do not downgrade a newer version or use a different model's firmware.

How to update (Windows only)

Record your current mappings and settings first; a factory reset clears saved configuration. Follow the instructions supplied with the matching firmware.

1. Download the GRS Spinner Ultra Configuration Tool v1.4 and open it with your spinner connected.
2. Email [email protected] for the latest firmware file for your model (Push & Pull or Button Hole) — tell us your order number and we'll send it right over.
3. Flash the firmware following the tool's on-screen instructions.
4. Confirm the tool reports the firmware version supplied by support for your model.
5. Press Factory Reset in the tool to clear the old settings memory (EEPROM).
6. Push & Pull models: run the push-and-pull calibration.
7. Save the configuration — done.

Using the spinner in an always-on arcade cabinet?

Also disable Windows USB power saving so the port never sleeps mid-game:

• Device Manager → Universal Serial Bus controllers → each USB Root Hub → Power Management → uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"
• Power Options → Advanced settings → USB settings → USB Selective Suspend = Disabled

Note: the standard TS-DOT-02 Push & Pull Spinner (2021, non-Ultra) is not affected by this issue and is not firmware-upgradeable.

Any trouble during the update? Email [email protected] with your order number — we'll walk you through it.

In short: one diagram covers every wire color and terminal — [download it here](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0606/7516/2341/files/wiring_diagram.jpg).

Tip: print it and tape it inside your control panel. It answers nearly every wiring question.

In short: Encoder Hub for full custom panels, Zero Delay V2 for simple stick+button builds, 12-in-1 board for the supported original 2018 Arcade1Up setup.

The GRS Zero Delay Encoder Board V2 supports DInput and XInput. Holding MODE + Button 2 for approximately 10 seconds switches to XInput and reboots the board; remap your frontend afterward. Tapping MODE changes analog/A-pad versus D-pad direction reporting. Confirm your encoder model before following this sequence.

Model scope: These MODE operations apply to the GRS Zero Delay Encoder Board V2 and the DIY kit using that board. Confirm your exact encoder; other GRS devices use different controls.

In short: switch the encoder from D-input to X-input mode — hold MODE + Button 2 for about 10 seconds — then re-map.

A possible cause of ghost inputs or erratic mapping is this encoder running in D-input mode. Batocera and most Linux arcade systems work much better in X-input:

1. Press and hold MODE + Button 2 for ~10 seconds.
2. The encoder board reboots into X-input mode.
3. Reconfigure the controller in Batocera (or your front-end).

Tip: tapping MODE alone cycles analog/A-pad versus D-pad modes — but for Batocera, RetroPie, Recalbox and Windows, X-input is the recommended mode. If issues persist after switching and remapping, contact us.

A supported mode change is a troubleshooting step, not a guarantee that every input fault will be fixed. If it still fails after the correct mode and remapping, contact support with your model, OS and results.

In short: ground (black, PIN 2) daisy-chains to one terminal; the signal wire (e.g. brown, PIN 13 for Button 1) goes to the other.

Example for a non-LED Seimitsu button (two .110 terminals):

1. Take a ground (GND) wire from PIN 2 (black) and connect it to one terminal. Ground is daisy-chained from button to button.
2. Take the signal wire from PIN 13 (brown) and connect it to the other terminal — that's Button 1.
3. Connect to your PC and verify the input in the gamepad settings.
4. Repeat for the remaining buttons; skipping a button in the daisy chain to reach another is fine as long as connections are secure.

Model scope: These MODE operations apply to the GRS Zero Delay Encoder Board V2 and the DIY kit using that board. Confirm your exact encoder; other GRS devices use different controls.

In short: Turbo toggles rapid-fire per button; MODE cycles analog/A-pad versus D-pad — and MODE + Button 2 (held 10s) switches D-input/X-input.

• Turbo: hold Turbo and press any button to toggle rapid-fire for that button.
• MODE (tap): cycles between analog/A-pad and D-pad input modes.
• MODE + Button 2 (hold ~10 seconds): switches the board between D-input and X-input — use X-input for Batocera/RetroPie/Windows front-ends.

A supported mode change is a troubleshooting step, not a guarantee that every input fault will be fixed. If it still fails after the correct mode and remapping, contact support with your model, OS and results.

In short: Sanwa JLF and JLX2 — yes. JLW — no. X-Arcade: newer stock sticks yes, Tankstick (IL) no.

Automatic switching

• Windows: tos428config GUI or tos428cl command line.
• Batocera, including Raspberry Pi 5: follow the community TOS instructions for BatoceraHelpers for your version. These are not an unchanged RetroPie or Recalbox installation.
• Recalbox 10.0.5/Pi 5: we do not have a validated plug-and-play automatic-switching guide. Use the manual 2-in-1 button or ask support about your exact system.
• Other OS/version combinations need a matching validated guide. The older Pi 3/32-bit binary is not the Pi 5 solution. No macOS automation software is provided here; manual button operation remains available.

One controller with multiple gates

A single 2-in-1 button can switch gates connected to one TOS controller with the appropriate extension kits. This differs from joining arbitrary joystick signals or multiple controller boards. Ask support before nonstandard wiring.

Extending wires

Use matching DuPont-style 2.54 mm extension wires to extend the existing connections and confirm the connectors and required length.

In short: use an official Raspberry Pi 4 power adapter — USB-PD fast chargers can't power or charge the BAC.

1. The BAC's power system does not support PD (Power Delivery) negotiation, so most phone fast-chargers won't work and can leave the battery drained. Use an official Raspberry Pi 4 adapter (non-PD).
2. Check the battery connector is fully seated.
3. Check the power switch assembly.

Still dead? Email [email protected] with your order number.

In short: re-seat the screen connection and the SD-card extension slot, and confirm the battery is actually charging.

1. Power off, then re-seat the screen (DSI) connection at both ends.
2. Re-seat the SD-card extension slot connection — a loose extension can block boot and slow SD data transfer.
3. Confirm the battery has charge: use an official Raspberry Pi 4 adapter — PD phone chargers won't charge the BAC.
4. Verify the OS image flashed correctly.

In short: it's open source — [download from SourceForge](https://sourceforge.net/projects/build-a-cade/files/img/), flash with Raspberry Pi Imager or balenaEtcher. Viper SBC owners skip this — R-Cade is pre-installed.

1. Download the image from SourceForge (free, open source).
2. Flash it to a microSD card using Raspberry Pi Imager or balenaEtcher.
3. First boot takes a few extra minutes while the system sets itself up.

GRS Viper SBC: ships with R-Cade pre-installed on its built-in eMMC storage — nothing to flash.

In short: R-Cade is the RetroArch-based system that runs the Build-A-Cade and Viper SBC. The community lives on Discord.

Join the R-Cade Discord for builds, help, and update news: discord.gg/fx5K2zR4cQ

In short: set the device index, calibrate, update R-Cade, and tell us your setup.

1. Set the yoke's device index in RetroArch (Settings → Input → Port Controls).
2. Calibrate the analog axes in the core options.
3. Update R-Cade to the latest build.

If the yoke works fine on a PC but not on the Viper, email [email protected]

In short: the global "optical device" setting is usually the culprit — disable it globally and enable it only for the games that need it.

When the optical device (lightgun/trackball/mouse) setting is enabled globally, it conflicts with Player 2: most console cores assign the optical device to a different player than MAME expects.

1. Open R-Cade settings and disable the optical device at the global level (this is the default).
2. Enable it per-game only for titles that actually use a lightgun, trackball, or mouse.
3. Re-test Player 2.

In short: in R-Cade's light gun settings, increase the border thickness and screen brightness — and dim the room lights.

The Sinden gun finds your screen by camera-detecting the white border, and ambient light interferes with that:

1. Open R-Cade → light gun settings.
2. Increase the border thickness.
3. Increase screen brightness.
4. Reduce ambient light (dim or reposition room lighting).

Match your exact cabinet generation and GRS parts before purchasing.

The TS-SPTB-COMBO LED Trackball with Spinner Combo is a different combined USB kit. It is not compatible with the original 12-in-1 through the GRS 12-in-1 Interface Board. A mounting bracket alone does not fix its connector/interface mismatch.

If your cabinet generation or exact control model is unclear, send the model label and a control-panel photo to [email protected] before buying. Model-specific Legacy USB modifications require separate confirmation and can have game limitations; they do not establish support for the original three-component setup.

Compatibility with Basic Fun Return of the Jedi and Atari Ultra cabinets is unverified in our current support knowledge.

The GRS Flight Yoke's supported Arcade1Up Star Wars installation is a different configuration; its PC USB use is separate as well. Similar-looking cabinets or possible manufacturing connections do not prove mounting or electrical compatibility.

Before buying a yoke or trackball for a Basic Fun cabinet, send your exact cabinet model and relevant photos to [email protected]. We will need a human to review the fit. Do not purchase on the assumption that a different Arcade1Up model's result applies.

In short: the Spinner Ultra drops into any 28mm button hole — yes. The TOS gate fits newer stock joysticks but NOT the Tankstick's IL-style joystick.

• Push & Pull Spinner Ultra on X-Arcade Dual: plug-and-play, no extra encoder. The included Tron-style knob has a flat top with side notches.
• TOS restrictor: fits the Arcade2TV-XR / newer X-Arcade stock joystick; not compatible with the Tankstick (IL-style joystick) — that's a design difference, not an installation error. Please don't cut or drill the panel; it won't solve it and may damage the unit.

In short: the TOS restrictor fits; GRS buttons need terminal adapters; ALU 1.2 connects to a PC without any extra encoder.

• TOS 4↔8-way restrictor: compatible.
• GRS Gold-Plated buttons: the ALU uses .187" (4.8mm) terminals, our buttons use .110" (2.8mm) — not direct plug-and-play. Use .187→.110 adapter wires or re-terminate the connectors (minor wiring work).
• You can purchase the adapter from here:https://www.arcaderenovations.com/male-187-to-female-110-conversion-wire.html?srsltid=AfmBOophVeqASYodXxs2KhODQB77xMvVUGkiTxQsb2PjZKQyDdzSjTFg
• Flight yoke or Tron stick installation: confirm the exact ALU model, control-panel revision, mounting dimensions and required harness with support. Do not assume every ALU/ALU Mini version shares mounting or includes the same installation hardware.
• PC use: ALU 1.2 has built-in OTG/USB output — usually no encoder needed.

In short: no — GRS controls are USB devices for emulation and PC systems. No JAMMA versions exist.

Original JAMMA PCBs (like a real Heavy Barrel board) aren't supported out of the box. The Tron stick's 5-pin JST output *can* be hand-rewired to an I-PAC 2, but we don't officially support it.

ELF PCB systems: our spinners and trackballs are USB devices — if your ELF board supports USB mouse/keyboard drivers, they should work. Confirm USB support with the board's seller first.

In short: spinners don't fit legacy non-USB cabinets or Countercades — but we have free adapter files for several other mounts.

• Legacy non-USB Arcade1Up cabinets and the Countercade line: not compatible with GRS spinners.
• Unlisted cabinet? Email a photo of your control panel and we'll confirm fit before you buy.
• We provide 3D-printable adapter STL files for several mounts (including the Arcade1Up spinner adapter) — just ask [email protected].

In short: it's an 8-inch wheel that fits standard GRS spinner shafts (Spinner V2 / Button-Hole). It is NOT an OutRun wheel replacement.

• Mounts on any GRS spinner with the standard shaft type (Spinner V2, button-hole spinner).
• Wheel diameter: approximately 8 inches. Need mounting-pattern or shaft measurements? Email us — happy to share detailed dimensions for your build.
• The Arcade1Up OutRun cabinet's steering wheel cannot be replaced with any GRS spinner product.

Cabinet clearance matters

A matching spinner shaft does not guarantee that the wheel clears your screen, joystick, neighboring controls or a second wheel. The stock spinner positions on the iiRcade Ultimate Control Panel sit too close to the screen for this wheel. Relocating a spinner would require a new mounting hole and clearance planning. Two-player operation through Mystery Encoder has not been confirmed here. Contact support with your exact setup before modifying or purchasing.