FAQs

In short: we ship worldwide — see your exact cost at checkout before paying. Some European orders ship from our Asia partner and typically take 15–20 days.

1. Add items to your cart and enter your address — checkout shows the shipping quote instantly, no commitment.
2. Some items ship to Europe from our partner warehouse in Asia (it keeps your shipping cost down) — typical delivery is 15–20 days, plus any customs processing.
3. Some products have dedicated international pages (like the IKARI International edition). If checkout refuses your address, check you're on the right regional page.

In short: orders ship within 24–48 hours of the label being created; USPS tracking can lag several days behind the package itself.

• Track using the link in your shipping confirmation email.
• "Label created" means the carrier hasn't scanned the box yet — we hand packages over within 24–48 hours of creating the label (busy weeks at the carrier can add a little time).
• USPS tracking sometimes updates late — packages have arrived with tracking updating only on the delivery day, up to a week later. If a package truly goes missing, we'll take care of resending it.
• Order unfulfilled, or marked delivered but missing? Email [email protected] with your order number.

In short: email us first for verification — then ship the item back with tracking (we don't provide prepaid labels).

1. Email [email protected] with your order number, the reason, and photos (plus original packaging if possible).
2. We verify the return and send you the return address.
3. Pack securely and ship with a trackable method, then send us the tracking number and shipping receipt.
4. Timelines: our third-party warehouse checks returns in within 1–2 weeks; refunds complete within 2–3 weeks of delivery.

Bought on Amazon? Use Amazon's own return process instead.

In short: yes — if you reach us before the order is fulfilled. Contact us immediately.

Email [email protected] with your order number and the change you need. Once an order has shipped, we can no longer modify it. Suspected fraud or payment problems go straight to a human team member.

In short: send your order number and photos — confirmed defects get replacement parts shipped, often without returning anything.

Email [email protected] with:

1. Your order number
2. Photos or a short video of the issue
3. For shipping damage: photos of the packaging too

We typically resolve defects by shipping the exact replacement part (PCB, cable, sensor wire, base) rather than making you return the whole unit. Missing items are checked against our packing records.

In short: every GRS product has official documentation — this page links all of it in one place.

• GRS Super Joystick / IKARI wiring diagram (wire colors): download here
• TS-RJConfigurator software (Super Joystick / IKARI): V1.04.11 download
• IKARI firmware (V2.33 / V2.35 / V2.36): on the IKARI product page
• GRS Tron Flight Stick installation manual (PDF): download here
• GRS Tron Flight Stick dimensional drawing (all measurements & travel clearances): download here
• GRS Trackball (TS-UTB-PRO) full user manual: download here — the printed sheet in the box is only the CPI/COL supplement
• GRS LED Trackball compatibility manual: download here
• Build-A-Cade / R-Cade OS images (open source): SourceForge downloads

Can't find what you need? Email [email protected] and we'll send it over.

In short: each product family has its own free tool — match yours below.

No download is needed for basic use — every GRS controller is plug-and-play USB.

In short: Windows 10 and 11 are supported. Windows XP and other legacy systems are not.

The joystick itself works on any system as a standard USB controller — only the configuration tool needs a modern Windows PC.

In short: yes — a full official playlist covers setup from unboxing to MAME.

Watch the playlist here: IKARI / Super Joystick setup playlist

It covers installation, mode switching (important for the Ikari), configuration on MAME / Raspberry Pi / PC, and calibration. The sensor-wire replacement also has its own step-by-step video.

In short: unscrew the base, swap the thin shaft cable for the included spare, and re-test. About 10 minutes.

Watch the official tutorial first: sensor wire replacement video

1. Unplug the joystick and remove the base plate.
2. Disconnect the old sensor cable at both ends.
3. Thread the new cable through the shaft and reconnect.
4. Re-test the twist in TS-RJConfigurator → Controller Tester.

Used your spare already? We sell replacement sensor cables — email [email protected].

In short: it's almost always the sensor wire — the thin cable inside the joystick shaft. A spare is included in your box.

1. Open TS-RJConfigurator → Controller Tester and watch the Z-axis while twisting.
2. Look at the LED on the base. Blinking = sensor signal problem.
3. Check the sensor wire at both ends — it can loosen or break during installation or re-cabling.
4. If it's damaged, swap in the spare cable — follow the official video guide. Most twist failures are fixed in 10 minutes.

Need more help? Email [email protected] with your order number.

In short: blinking means the controller isn't getting a clean sensor signal. Solid means everything is normal.

1. Re-seat the sensor wire connectors at both ends.
2. Still blinking? The sensor wire is likely damaged — replace it with the included spare (video guide).

In short: the joystick's driver mode doesn't match its physical setup — match them, or simply use Mouse Mode for MAME.

The original arcade gave one twist = 45°. Double-twisting happens when the mode (8/12/16-way) doesn't match the knob cover and driver setting — not because of a hardware defect.

1. Check the current mode with the 2-in-1 button.
2. Make sure the physical knob cover and the driver mode are set to the same type (e.g. 12-way for Ikari Warriors).
3. Make sure you follow the exact recommended settings for analog sensitivity listed in the user manual.
4. Best practice for MAME: use Mouse Mode — it gives the most accurate rotary tracking, closest to the original arcade feel.

Full walkthrough: setup video playlist

In short: re-seat the knob cover, match it to the game type, and update firmware.

1. Press the knob cover down until it's fully seated.
2. Use the right cover for the game: 8, 12, or 16-way.
3. Check for debris under the cover.
4. Update to the latest firmware (V2.36+, on the product page).

Still skipping? Run the Controller Tester in TS-RJConfigurator, record a short video, and send it to [email protected].

In short: yes — and before removing a button terminal, press its small locking hook or you may damage the microswitch.

• Every joystick ships with one spare sensor cable in the box; more are available from [email protected].
• Removing button terminals: each terminal has a small hook that locks it in place. Push the hook down to release it, then slide the terminal off. Pulling with force without releasing the hook can damage the microswitch terminal — if that's happened to you, you can purchase the same exact button from our website.

In short: no — the blue artwork is only on the packaging. Every unit is identical.

The box shows both the red (Player 1) and blue (Player 2) Ikari Warriors characters, which makes some buyers think a separate blue kit exists. It doesn't. For a two-player setup, buy two standard units — they're the same hardware.

In short: that's intentional — SNK mode matches the official SNK 40th Anniversary Collection behavior.

Auto-fire in SNK mode is part of the licensed integration, not a fault. For different behavior in other games, switch modes (Gamepad / Keystroke / Mouse) or remap the trigger in TS-RJConfigurator.

In short: you're probably on the wrong regional product page. There are two: US and International.

• US customers: order from the main product page.
• UK, EU, Japan, Canada, Australia: order the International edition.

If you see "not available in your area," switch to the other page and try again.

In short: test a different port, cable, and PC — if it fails on two computers, we'll replace the hardware.

1. Try a different USB port (rear motherboard ports are most reliable) and a different cable.
2. Make sure the power button is switched on. It's located at the bottom, underneath the yoke controller.
3. Press Windows key + R, type joy.cpl, press Enter — a healthy yoke appears in this game controllers list.
4. Test on a second PC.
5. Not detected on two machines? Email [email protected] with your order number — this points to a hardware fault we'll replace.

In short: on the level-select screen, push the yoke to its maximum in all directions 2–3 times — and always use Gamepad mode, not Mouse mode.

The original Star Wars arcade used potentiometer hardware with wide tolerances, so the game has a built-in calibration step most players don't know about:

1. Start the game and reach the level selection screen.
2. Move the yoke to its maximum positions in all directions, 2–3 times.
3. The game is now calibrated to your yoke.

Also: Star Wars (and most MAME games) only work correctly with the yoke in Gamepad mode — don't use Mouse mode.

In short: the four screws on the bottom panel adjust rotation tightness — loosen them slightly, reinstall, then calibrate in Windows.

1. Remove the four screws on the bottom panel. These adjust the tightness of the yoke's rotation.
2. Loosen them slightly and reinstall — this resolves most centering issues.
3. Then calibrate in Windows: Windows key + R → joy.cpl → Properties → Calibrate.
4. In an emulator, add a small dead zone if tiny movements still register.

In short: flip the Y-axis in your emulator's settings — don't rewire anything.

• MAME: Tab → input settings → enable "reverse" on the Y analog axis.
• RetroArch: input remap → invert Y for the core.
• Follow the user menu. There is a section that tells you to press a push button for 10 seconds to revert the Y-axis.

This often appears after installing a Buy Stuff Arcades PC upgrade kit, which maps the axis differently. The fix is always in software.

In short: RetroArch auto-assigns the yoke to port 1 — manually set its device index for the port your game uses.

1. In RetroArch: Settings → Input → Port N Controls.
2. Set the yoke's Device Index for the correct port.
3. Save the configuration (Settings → Configuration → Save on Quit, or save a game remap).

In short: the yoke plugs into the wireless dongle's USB-A port, and the dongle's USB-C plug goes into your PC.

1. Mount the kit with the included screws and connect the internal USB lead.
2. Plug the Flight Yoke into the dongle's USB-A port.
3. Plug the dongle's USB-C connector into your PC.
4. No free USB-C port? Use a powered USB hub with USB-A or USB-C downstream ports. (A USB-C-to-USB-B adapter into an old USB-B hub will *not* work.)
5. Switching D-input / X-input: Long-press the push button located on the extension kit dongle to switch between D-input and X-input mode.

Known issue we're investigating: in X-input mode, a full right turn can occasionally register as a left input. If you see this on two different PCs, we are currently developing a new firmware to address this issue.

In short: no — free 360° rotation is a fault. Stop using it and contact us. Also check the locking mechanism.

The Tron stick is built with restricted rotation to protect its internal wiring. If yours rotates freely, continued use can damage the wires — email [email protected] with your order number and a short video.

Don't miss the locking mechanism: lock the joystick in place by pushing the bottom part and rotating it 90 degrees. It's easy to miss if you skip the manual — and an unlocked stick can feel "loose" or unstable.

In short: add the TOS restrictor if you want stricter gates.

1. Consider the TOS restrictor — note that on the Tron stick it is 8-way only by design.
2. Keep in mind the stick is a modern recreation, not a 1:1 copy of the original Tron mechanism — some feel the difference is expected.

In short: map the spinner per game, then turn on "Save Configuration on Quit" — or your mapping disappears at restart.

1. In the game: Quick Menu → Controls → set the Mouse Index / analog binding.
2. Then — critical — Settings → Configuration → "Save Configuration on Quit" = ON (or use Save Game Remap).

Step 2 is the one everyone misses — it's the most common reason a spinner "stops working" after a reboot.

In short: turn DIP switches 1 and 2 ON to remove the built-in 8ms Arcade1Up delay.

The board ships with a small latency buffer for stock Arcade1Up PCBs. On a PC/MAME build you don't need it:

1. Set DIP 1 = ON and DIP 2 = ON.
2. Reconnect — the spinner responds instantly.

In short: [download it here](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0606/7516/2341/files/GRS_Spinner_Ultra_Configuration_Tool-1.4.zip?v=1750728650) — Windows only.

The tool works with the Push & Pull Spinner Ultra and Button Hole Spinner Ultra, and configures:

• CPR / sensitivity
• Axis direction
• Button mappings
• Spinner behavior settings

Older versions had a UI bug where dropdown text disappeared — the current release fixes it, so re-download if you see it.

In short: it retrofits older BSP/DOT spinners with the hall-effect, high-resolution PCB from the Ultra series — for $6.99.

• Current Ultra models already include this PCB — no upgrade needed.
• Own an older V2-era spinner? Get the upgrade kit here.

In short: it's usually the USB cable — test that before anything else.

1. Re-seat both ends of the USB cable, then try a known-good cable and a different port.
2. Check Device Manager — the trackball shows up as a HID mouse.
3. Nothing on a second PC either? Email [email protected] for a warranty replacement.

In short: clean the rollers first; if one axis stays slow, it's a sensor fault we'll replace.

1. Pop the ball out and clean the rollers and bearings (lint loves to collect there).
2. Re-seat the ball and test.
3. Still slow on one axis? Send a short video and your order number to [email protected] — that symptom usually means a sensor/roller fault, covered by replacement.

In short: GRS spinners are processed USB HID devices — they don't output raw quadrature signals.

• The P1 connector is not an open quadrature (A/B phase) output.
• For wireless or microcontroller builds, use a USB-host board (e.g. ESP32-S3) that reads the spinner as a USB HID device and relays its input.
• The spinner's USB connection runs over a 4-pin JST cable.

In short: the spinner itself always stays USB; only the push/pull button clicks can be wired to an encoder.

The rotation is read as a USB mouse axis and can't pass through a keyboard encoder. The push/pull switch contacts, however, are normal button signals — wire those to an iPAC 2 or any encoder like a standard button. Email us your encoder model if you'd like wiring confirmation first.

In short: a firmware update — v2.64 — permanently fixes both issues. It takes about 10 minutes on a Windows PC.

Do I have the affected batch?

A recent production batch of Ultra spinners shipped with firmware v2.61, which can cause:

• GRS USB Button Hole Spinner Ultra: the spinner disconnects after roughly 5–7 minutes of use (re-plugging temporarily fixes it)
• GRS Push & Pull Spinner Ultra: USB enumeration fails on cold boot — Windows shows "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)"

Firmware v2.64 (released June 30, 2026) resolves both, and also strengthens the spinner's on-chip security authentication. If you're on any older version, update — always flash the latest release.

How to update (Windows only)

1. Download the GRS Spinner Ultra Configuration Tool v1.4 and open it with your spinner connected.
2. Email [email protected] for the latest firmware file for your model (Push & Pull or Button Hole) — tell us your order number and we'll send it right over.
3. Flash the firmware following the tool's on-screen instructions.
4. Confirm the tool now reports v2.64.
5. Press Factory Reset in the tool to clear the old settings memory (EEPROM).
6. Push & Pull models: run the push-and-pull calibration.
7. Save the configuration — done.

Using the spinner in an always-on arcade cabinet?

Also disable Windows USB power saving so the port never sleeps mid-game:

• Device Manager → Universal Serial Bus controllers → each USB Root Hub → Power Management → uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"
• Power Options → Advanced settings → USB settings → USB Selective Suspend = Disabled

Note: the standard TS-DOT-02 Push & Pull Spinner (2021, non-Ultra) is not affected by this issue and is not firmware-upgradeable.

Any trouble during the update? Email [email protected] with your order number — we'll walk you through it.

In short: a firmware update — v2.64 — permanently fixes both issues. It takes about 10 minutes on a Windows PC.

Do I have the affected batch?

A recent production batch of Ultra spinners shipped with firmware v2.61, which can cause:

• GRS USB Button Hole Spinner Ultra: the spinner disconnects after roughly 5–7 minutes of use (re-plugging temporarily fixes it)
• GRS Push & Pull Spinner Ultra: USB enumeration fails on cold boot — Windows shows "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)"

Firmware v2.64 (released June 30, 2026) resolves both, and also strengthens the spinner's on-chip security authentication. If you're on any older version, update — always flash the latest release.

How to update (Windows only)

1. Download the GRS Spinner Ultra Configuration Tool v1.4 and open it with your spinner connected.
2. Email [email protected] for the latest firmware file for your model (Push & Pull or Button Hole) — tell us your order number and we'll send it right over.
3. Flash the firmware following the tool's on-screen instructions.
4. Confirm the tool now reports v2.64.
5. Press Factory Reset in the tool to clear the old settings memory (EEPROM).
6. Push & Pull models: run the push-and-pull calibration.
7. Save the configuration — done.

Using the spinner in an always-on arcade cabinet?

Also disable Windows USB power saving so the port never sleeps mid-game:

• Device Manager → Universal Serial Bus controllers → each USB Root Hub → Power Management → uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"
• Power Options → Advanced settings → USB settings → USB Selective Suspend = Disabled

Note: the standard TS-DOT-02 Push & Pull Spinner (2021, non-Ultra) is not affected by this issue and is not firmware-upgradeable.

Any trouble during the update? Email [email protected] with your order number — we'll walk you through it.

In short: one diagram covers every wire color and terminal — [download it here](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0606/7516/2341/files/wiring_diagram.jpg).

Tip: print it and tape it inside your control panel. It answers nearly every wiring question.

In short: Encoder Hub for full custom panels, Zero Delay V2 for simple stick+button builds, 12-in-1 board for Arcade1Up machines.

In short: switch the encoder from D-input to X-input mode — hold MODE + Button 2 for about 10 seconds — then re-map.

Ghost inputs, auto-triggering while centered, and erratic mapping are almost always caused by the encoder running in D-input mode. Batocera and most Linux arcade systems work much better in X-input:

1. Press and hold MODE + Button 2 for ~10 seconds.
2. The encoder board reboots into X-input mode.
3. Reconfigure the controller in Batocera (or your front-end).

Tip: tapping MODE alone cycles D-Pad/Analog modes — but for Batocera, RetroPie, Recalbox and Windows, X-input is the recommended mode. If issues persist after switching and remapping, contact us.

In short: ground (black, PIN 2) daisy-chains to one terminal; the signal wire (e.g. brown, PIN 13 for Button 1) goes to the other.

Example for a non-LED Seimitsu button (two .110 terminals):

1. Take a ground (GND) wire from PIN 2 (black) and connect it to one terminal. Ground is daisy-chained from button to button.
2. Take the signal wire from PIN 13 (brown) and connect it to the other terminal — that's Button 1.
3. Connect to your PC and verify the input in the gamepad settings.
4. Repeat for the remaining buttons; skipping a button in the daisy chain to reach another is fine as long as connections are secure.

In short: Turbo toggles rapid-fire per button; MODE cycles D-Pad/Analog — and MODE + Button 2 (held 10s) switches D-input/X-input.

• Turbo: hold Turbo and press any button to toggle rapid-fire for that button.
• MODE (tap): cycles between D-Pad and Analog input modes.
• MODE + Button 2 (hold ~10 seconds): switches the board between D-input and X-input — use X-input for Batocera/RetroPie/Windows front-ends.

In short: Sanwa JLF and JLX2 — yes. JLW — no. X-Arcade: newer stock sticks yes, Tankstick (IL) no.

In short: automatic switching works on Windows and Raspberry Pi 5; wires extend with standard DuPont 2.54mm jumpers.

Automatic 4↔8-way switching:

• Windows: tos428config (app) or tos428cl (command line)
• RetroPie / Batocera on Pi 5: community BatoceraHelpers scripts
• macOS: not available — use the manual 2-in-1 button (works everywhere)

Wires too short for a big or 4-player panel? Normal — extend with standard DuPont-style 2.54mm jumper wires.

In short: use an official Raspberry Pi 4 power adapter — USB-PD fast chargers can't power or charge the BAC.

1. The BAC's power system does not support PD (Power Delivery) negotiation, so most phone fast-chargers won't work and can leave the battery drained. Use an official Raspberry Pi 4 adapter (non-PD).
2. Check the battery connector is fully seated.
3. Check the power switch assembly.

Still dead? Email [email protected] with your order number.

In short: re-seat the screen connection and the SD-card extension slot, and confirm the battery is actually charging.

1. Power off, then re-seat the screen (DSI) connection at both ends.
2. Re-seat the SD-card extension slot connection — a loose extension can block boot and slow SD data transfer.
3. Confirm the battery has charge: use an official Raspberry Pi 4 adapter — PD phone chargers won't charge the BAC.
4. Verify the OS image flashed correctly.

In short: it's open source — [download from SourceForge](https://sourceforge.net/projects/build-a-cade/files/img/), flash with Raspberry Pi Imager or balenaEtcher. Viper SBC owners skip this — R-Cade is pre-installed.

1. Download the image from SourceForge (free, open source).
2. Flash it to a microSD card using Raspberry Pi Imager or balenaEtcher.
3. First boot takes a few extra minutes while the system sets itself up.

GRS Viper SBC: ships with R-Cade pre-installed on its built-in eMMC storage — nothing to flash.

In short: R-Cade is the RetroArch-based system that runs the Build-A-Cade and Viper SBC. The community lives on Discord.

Join the R-Cade Discord for builds, help, and update news: discord.gg/fx5K2zR4cQ

In short: set the device index, calibrate, update R-Cade, and tell us your setup.

1. Set the yoke's device index in RetroArch (Settings → Input → Port Controls).
2. Calibrate the analog axes in the core options.
3. Update R-Cade to the latest build.

If the yoke works fine on a PC but not on the Viper, email [email protected]

In short: the global "optical device" setting is usually the culprit — disable it globally and enable it only for the games that need it.

When the optical device (lightgun/trackball/mouse) setting is enabled globally, it conflicts with Player 2: most console cores assign the optical device to a different player than MAME expects.

1. Open R-Cade settings and disable the optical device at the global level (this is the default).
2. Enable it per-game only for titles that actually use a lightgun, trackball, or mouse.
3. Re-test Player 2.

In short: in R-Cade's light gun settings, increase the border thickness and screen brightness — and dim the room lights.

The Sinden gun finds your screen by camera-detecting the white border, and ambient light interferes with that:

1. Open R-Cade → light gun settings.
2. Increase the border thickness.
3. Increase screen brightness.
4. Reduce ambient light (dim or reposition room lighting).

In short: most Arcade1Up cabinets have a GRS upgrade path — but a few are confirmed incompatible. Check your model below.

In short: not confirmed — don't buy expecting plug-and-play.

• Return of the Jedi: the GRS Flight Yoke is only officially supported on the Arcade1Up Star Wars cabinet. Basic Fun ROTJ is unverified — measure before buying.
• Atari Ultra series (2025+): likely incompatible with GRS trackballs.

Send a photo of your control panel to [email protected] and we'll advise before you spend money.

In short: the Spinner Ultra drops into any 28mm button hole — yes. The TOS gate fits newer stock joysticks but NOT the Tankstick's IL-style joystick.

• Push & Pull Spinner Ultra on X-Arcade Dual: plug-and-play, no extra encoder. The included Tron-style knob has a flat top with side notches.
• TOS restrictor: fits the Arcade2TV-XR / newer X-Arcade stock joystick; not compatible with the Tankstick (IL-style joystick) — that's a design difference, not an installation error. Please don't cut or drill the panel; it won't solve it and may damage the unit.

In short: the TOS restrictor fits; GRS buttons need terminal adapters; ALU 1.2 connects to a PC without any extra encoder.

• TOS 4↔8-way restrictor: compatible.
• GRS Gold-Plated buttons: the ALU uses .187" (4.8mm) terminals, our buttons use .110" (2.8mm) — not direct plug-and-play. Use .187→.110 adapter wires or re-terminate the connectors (minor wiring work).
• You can purchase the adapter from here:https://www.arcaderenovations.com/male-187-to-female-110-conversion-wire.html?srsltid=AfmBOophVeqASYodXxs2KhODQB77xMvVUGkiTxQsb2PjZKQyDdzSjTFg
• Yoke install: both ALU 1.0 and 1.1 screw lengths are included in the kit (see the yoke screws article).
• PC use: ALU 1.2 has built-in OTG/USB output — usually no encoder needed.

In short: no — GRS controls are USB devices for emulation and PC systems. No JAMMA versions exist.

Original JAMMA PCBs (like a real Heavy Barrel board) aren't supported out of the box. The Tron stick's 5-pin JST output *can* be hand-rewired to an I-PAC 2, but we don't officially support it.

ELF PCB systems: our spinners and trackballs are USB devices — if your ELF board supports USB mouse/keyboard drivers, they should work. Confirm USB support with the board's seller first.

In short: spinners don't fit legacy non-USB cabinets or Countercades — but we have free adapter files for several other mounts.

• Legacy non-USB Arcade1Up cabinets and the Countercade line: not compatible with GRS spinners.
• Unlisted cabinet? Email a photo of your control panel and we'll confirm fit before you buy.
• We provide 3D-printable adapter STL files for several mounts (including the Arcade1Up spinner adapter) — just ask [email protected].

In short: it's an 8-inch wheel that fits standard GRS spinner shafts (Spinner V2 / Button-Hole). It is NOT an OutRun wheel replacement.

• Mounts on any GRS spinner with the standard shaft type (Spinner V2, button-hole spinner).
• Wheel diameter: approximately 8 inches. Need mounting-pattern or shaft measurements? Email us — happy to share detailed dimensions for your build.
• The Arcade1Up OutRun cabinet's steering wheel cannot be replaced with any GRS spinner product.